Chapter 13 - Hardy Herbaceous Plants—Tender Bedding-Plants—Tender Climbers And Subtropical Plants

Transplanting and care
Best varieties
Tender bedding plants—best varieties
Tender climbing plants—best varieties
Sub-tropical plants—treatment; best varieties.

Long lists of hardy herbaceous plants are given in the catalogues of many nurserymen, and a large proportion of the species and varieties advertised are valuable under proper conditions of soil, exposure, and care, but the majority will not give satisfaction under ordinary treatment given by the amateur, and in the following list I shall only describe a few of the most desirable and easily grown.

Paeonia, Chinese.                                 Iris, Japanese.
"       Tree.                                            "    German.
"       Cut-leaved.                                  Poppy, Oriental.
Phlox, Garden.                                     Feverfew, Hardy.
"      Dwarf or Moss-pink.                     Bloodroot.
Hollyhock.                                            Wake-robin.
Anemone, Japanese,                             Pansy.
Columbine.                                           Violet, English.
Aster, Native.                                       Yucca.
Spirase, Japanese.                                Lily, Golden-banded.
Daisy, English.                                      "     Lance-leaved.
Poppy, Plume.                                      "     Garden Easter.
Lily-of-the-valley,                                 "     Long-flowered Easter.
Fraxinella.                                             "     Harris, Easter.
Carnation-pink.                                    '      Turk's-cap.
Plantain-lily.                                          ''     Bateman's.
Mist-plant.                                            Dutch Bulbs.
Sunflower, Hardy.                                Gladiolus.
Golden Glow, Rudbeckia.

CHINESE PǼONIAS (Pǽonia sinensis).—The finest of all the pǽonies in that it is hardy, vigorous in growth, and gives an almost endless variety of color and forms of flowers. For massing it is one of the most showy plants, but the foliage dies down during the last of July and early August, and the beds must be filled with something ornamental after this occurs. They are easily propagated: a single chimp after three or four years of growth may be so divided as to make from five to ten plants. After having been grown four or five years in one bed they are much improved by this division, manuring the bed, and replanting only one good clump of two or three eyes where the old clump grew. The fall, September or October, or very early in the spring is the best time for transplanting. Desirable varieties may be obtained from almost any nursery.

TREE-PǼONY (P. monitans).—The flowers of this species are rather more delicately shaded and beautiful than the last. It produces a woody stem that continues to increase until under favorable conditions it reaches a height of 2 to 4 feet. While generally considered hardy, it will be much benefited if protected by a wrap of rye-straw or pine boughs set up about them.

CUT-LEAVED PǼONY (P. tenuifolia), Fig. 123.—This species has finely cut foliage and dark crimson flowers that open considerably in advance of the other species.

GARDEN PHLOX (Phlox paniculata), Fig. 124.—One of the most easily grown hardy perennials, and the large number of beautiful varieties now offered makes it especially desirable. The growth and size of the flowers are much improved if the clumps are divided and transplanted, as described for the paeony, once in four or five years. In selecting varieties  dull colors should be avoided,  as the flowers lose their brilliancy after having been open a little while, and it is only the most brilliantly colored ones that are satisfactory.

FIG. 124—Garden Phlox {Phlox paniculata).
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  FIG. 123—cut-leaved pǼonia (Pǽonia tennifolia).

  FIG. 125—Muss-Pink (Phlux subulata).

MOSS-PINK (P. subulata). Fig. 125.—This early-blooming little plant produces such n wealth of flowers that it should be planted wherever it will succeed. It thrives best in a rather dry location, and very pretty designs may be made by arrangement of the pink- and white-flowered varieties.

FIG 126—Hollyhock (Althea rosea).

HOLLYHOCK (Althea rosea), Fig. 126.—Some of the most beautiful results are sometimes obtained by grouping this flower with a suitable background, as a sloping lawn, a cluster of evergreens, or other trees or shrubs with a dark green foliage. The plant is a biennial and succeeds best if planted in new soil each time. The seed sown in the open ground in May will produce plants that will bloom the following season, and under favorable conditions bloom a second season, but the best flowers are always produced the second season from seed. The hollyhock rust is sometimes very injurious, and may be kept in check by spraying with the Bordeaux mixture or largely prevented by planting on new soil each season.

JAPANESE ANEMONE (Anemone Japonica).-This is a beautiful addition to our  list  of autumn-blooming her baceous plants, as it blooms from September to November, when few other plants are in bloom. The flowers are large and showy and of two colors, red or rose-color and white.

COLUMBINE (Aquilegia vulgaris), Fig. 127.—The common garden columbine varies very much in color and form of flowers and is very easily grown.    It is best to sow seeds every two or three years to renew the stock. The Rocky-Mountain yellow (A. chrysantha) and the blue (A. coerulea) succeed well in rather moist locations.

FIG. 127—Columbine (Aquilegia).

NATIVE ASTERS.—Many species of our native asters are very beautiful, and under proper conditions succeed in cultivation. Under the shade of avenue- or street-trees Aster cordifolius and A.  undulatus grow beautifully in the Northern States. Other species grow in dry and exposed places, while still others prefer a moist and somewhat sheltered place, and in the selection of species one must take those that naturally grow under conditions of soil intended to decorate. Young plants should be selected if possible, and late fall or early spring is the best time to transplant.

JAPANESE SPIRǼA (Astilbe Japonica),—A very beautiful and easily grown plant, well adapted to growth in beds or borders and also much used for forcing. It produces beautiful feathery panicles of pure white flowers in June. The clumps need dividing and replanting once in three or four years. The variety " grandiflora " is superior to the common form.

ENGLISH DAISY (Bellis Perennis), Fig. 128.—A beautiful little flower, varying from white through all shades of pink to the deepest red, easily grown, and rapidly propagated from seed or by division. It requires slight protection of pine boughs to keep it from winter-killing.

FIG. 128—English Daisy (Bellis perennis).
FIG. 129—Lily Of-The-Valley (Convallaria majalis).

PLUME-POPPY (Bocconia Japonica). — No herbaceous perennial plant produces more subtropical effect than this one. The leaves are large, deeply lobed, of a glaucous green color, and the flowers are plume-like panicles followed by numerous pods that continue its beauty for a long time. It grows from 5 to 8 feet high and spreads rapidly, but not to such an extent as to be uncontrollable. By pulling out the suckers in the spring that come up beyond the limits of the space desired that it shall occupy it can be easily kept within bounds, and this thinning will result in a more vigorous growth of the remaining canes. Only a limited number of the shoots that start in the spring should be allowed to grow. All others should be pulled out or broken off as soon as they appear.

LILY OF-THE-VALLEY {Convallaria majalis), Fig. 129. —This little flowering plant, so much sought for and so beautiful, may be easily grown in shaded places. It spreads rapidly and needs thinning out occasionally to insure an abundant bloom. A light dressing of compost in the fall will improve the size and number of the flowers produced.

FRAXINELLA OE GAS-PLANT (Dictamnus Fraxinella).— A very hardy old garden-plant, producing large terminal racemes of flowers. There are two forms: the pink- and the white-flowered. It is called the gas-plant because of an explosion that occurs when a lighted match or lamp is held close up to the open flowers. This was supposed to be an explosion of gas, bat close investigation has shown that it is the result of the combustion of an easily ignited wax secreted on the petals.

FIG. 130—Carnation-Pink (Dianthus caryophyllus).

CARNATION-PINKS (Dianthus caryophyllus), Fig. 130.—Some of the varieties of the carnation-pink are hardy, very beautiful, and easily grown from seed and also by slips. To have them go through the winter uninjured they should be given a slight protection of straw or pine boughs.

PLANTAIN-LILY (Funkia subcordata), Fig. 131.—A most beautiful old garden-plant with large cordate leaves of a light green color, producing clusters of pure white flowers. Very ornamental in the garden and succeeds well in tubs or boxes on the lawn or veranda.

FIG. 131—Plantain-Lily (Funkia sub-cordata).

MIST-PLANT (Gypsophylla paniculata).—A tall plant with small glaucous leaves and a very large open panicle of minute white flowers that are very pretty for lightening up bouquets and arranging with all kinds of flowers. It is perfectly hardy and requires but little care to keep it growing to perfection.

HARDY SUNFLOWER (Helianthus multiflorus), Fig. 132. —One of the most striking of the hardy perennial plants.

 
FIG 132—Hardy Sunflower (Htlianthus multiflorus).

The flowers are large, perfectly double, of a golden-yellow color, and produced in great profusion. Its blossoms are rather coarse and do not last long, but their brightness and perfect form make them valuable additions to large places. A slight protection of coarse manure over the roots is sometimes needed.

GOLDEN-GLOW (Rudbeclda laciniata).—Similar to the last, but with a more brilliant and not quite so double yellow flower, very hardy, easily grown, and will be very popular for a time.

JAPANESE IRIS (Iris Koempheri), Fig. 133.—Next to the chrysanthemum, this species of iris is the most popular flower in Japan, and it well deserves the esteem with which it is held by this most progressive Eastern nation. The flowers are very large, often six inches across, of varying colors and markings, ranging from pure white through all the shades of pink, dark red, and purple to almost black, with many peculiar combinations and mixtures of colors.

FIG. 133—Japanese Iris (Iris Koempheri),

It succeeds best in a rather moist, rich soil. Many other species of iris are very beautiful and desirable, among the best of which is the GERMAN IRIS (Iris Germanica).—The foliage of this species is more glaucous than that of the Japanese, and the flowers possess many shades of yellow and orange in addition to the varying colors of the latter, though the colors are not so brilliant or well defined. It grows upon light soil quite as readily as upon a heavy one.

ORIENTAL POPPY (Papava orientalis), Fig. 134.—The flowers of this species are if the most brilliant scarlet color, marked with an almost black centre. It is perfectly hardy, and all the care required to grow it successfully after planting is to apply a dressing of fine compost on the bed in the fall and keep the grass and weeds from choking out the plants during the summer.

FIG. 134—Ohiental Poity (Papata orientalis).

HARDY FEVERFEW (Pyrethrum roseum and cinerari-folium).—Many beautiful double-flowering varieties of the above species have been introduced and are so easily grown and beautiful both in foliage and flower that they should be more generally planted. The blossoms of these species are used for the manufacture of the powder known under the names of Persian, Dalmatian, and Buhack insect-powder.

BLOODROOT {Sanguinaria Canadensis).—A very common and most beautiful native plant, producing its pure white flowers very early in the spring. It grows best in moist, shaded places among rocks and underbrush, and is easily transplanted from its wild state to the garden. The very early blossoms are followed by broad, lobed glaucous leaves that retain their beauty for a considerable part of the summer.

"WAKE-ROBIST {Trillium erectum, erythrocarpum, and grandiflorum).—All very pretty early-blooming species, requiring moist, shaded locations to give the best results, and are easily transplanted from the woods to the garden.

PANSY (Viola tricolor), Fig. 135.—When properly grown no early-blooming flower gives more satisfaction.— So much show outside and so many flowers for indoor decoration.—To obtain the best results the seed should be sown in August in a cool, airy place, and when three or four of the middle leaves have formed be transplanted to a bed where they may be protected for a time from very severe freezing until they have reached a size to show some flower-buds. They then should be exposed to the weather to harden them off. and be protected from severe freezing during the winter by a covering of pine boughs and a few leaves. Too deep covering will destroy the plants by producing fermentation. In the spring the covering should be removed as soon as severe freezing is over, in this section about April 1st, fine rich manure be worked in about the plants, and the soil settled by a heavy watering. All of the very early buds should be removed as soon as open until the plants have gained good size and are vigorous, when the blossoms may be allowed to mature and they will then be of large size. These plants may be transplanted to beds on the lawn or in the garden and produce large quantities of blossoms for two months, i.e., April to June. All faded flowers should be removed and none of the seed-pods be allowed to mature if the largest flowers are desired, as the development of a single seed-vessel will exhaust the plants more than the production of a dozen flowers.

FIG. 135—Pansy (Viola tricolor).

ENGLISH VIOLET (V. odorata), Fig. 13G.—This little plant can also be successfully grown in the garden or lawn with a little care. The best method for the amateur with no greenhouse facilities is to divide the old crowns after they have bloomed in the spring and plant in a moist, slightly shaded place, keeping the ground well cultivated, and during the summer pick off all runners, thus forcing the plants to make a large number of crowns and many flower-buds. If the plants are not where they can be protected during the winter, they may be transplanted in October to a more sheltered place and he given a little shelter with coarse manure, leaves, or pine boughs when severe freezing weather sets in the last of November or early December. In the spring they should be uncovered as soon as the snow disappears and some fine, well-rotted manure be worked in about them, when, with an abundance of rain to settle the soil about the roots, the flowers will grow rapidly and be of large size.

FIG. 136—English Violet (V. odorata).

YUCCA OR ADAM'S NEEDLE-AND-THREAD PLANT (Yucca filamentosa), Fig. 137.—A very beautiful and hardy plant, producing striking effects on the lawn, with its long upright narrow leaves and large panicle of creamy-white flowers rising 4 or 5 feet high. It is especially appropriate with evergreens in the background and among rocks. It is easily propagated by division or from seed, and grows many years without renewal.

FIG. 137—Yucca (Yucca filamentosa).

LILIES.—No place is complete without some of the species of this queen of flowers. Some of them are very easily grown and give great satisfaction. For the best results they should be planted in a deep, mellow soil, one not affected by drought and yet not wet. The bulbs should be planted from 4 to 6 inches deep as early in the fall as they can be procured, which is often not until October, most of the bulbs being imported. Bulbs already in the garden should be transplanted in August or as soon as the flower-stalks die down. It will be found a great advantage to take up and separate the bulbs of the lily-bed, renew the soil, and replant once in three or four years.  Among the best varieties are:

FIG. 138—Golden-Banded Lily (Lilium auratum).

GOLDEN-BANDED LILY {Lilium auratum), Fig. 138.— This is the finest of all the Japan lilies. The flowers are large, white, spotted with dark crimson, and with a golden line or band along the centre of each petal. The flowers often grow in large clusters, as many as forty sometimes appear on a single stalk, but the ordinary number is about six to ten. There are several varietal forms of this superb lily.

LAHCE-LEAVED LILY (L. lancifolium or speciosum).— Bather more hardy and easily grown than the last, and producing beautiful flowers of somewhat the same character and markings, but without the golden band. The two varieties album and rubrum, white and pink, are distinct and desirable.

GARDEN EASTER LILY (L. candidum).—This pure white lily has long been in cultivation, and when not attacked by the " lily-blight," a disease peculiar to this species, is perhaps the best white lily for garden cultivation.

LONG-FLOWERED JAPAN LILY (L. longiflorum).—A vigorous and hardy species producing very large tubular white flowers. The variety known as the Bermuda Easter lily (L. Harrisii) is largely used for forcing for Easter decorations.

TURK'S-CAP LILY (L. superbum).—One of the finest of all the lilies in size and vigor of growth of plant, often reaching 6 feet in height. It succeeds best in rather moist soil, and the flowers vary from orange to red, spotted, with recurved petals and producing a large number on a stalk.

BATEMAN'S LILY [L. Batemanii).—Plants of medium growth with erect orange or apricot-colored flowers. Thrives well in a variety of soils, but succeeds best in one of a rather light, deep nature.

DUTCH BULBS.—Varieties of hyacinths (Tlyacinthus orientalis), tulips (Tulipa Gesneriana), crocus {Crocus sp.), narcissus, daffodils, and jonquils (Narcissus sp.), Fig. 139. Few plants give more beauty for the labor and expense involved than beds of these early-blooming plants.    Most of these bulbs are grown in Holland, whence the name. They are especially desirable on the lawn or in borders along the walks and near the house. For the best success the bed should be made deep and rich in August or September, and the bulbs be planted from 4 to 6 inches deep as soon as they can be obtained in the fall. A heavy covering of coarse manure on the bed just before the ground freezes will keep out the frost and hasten the time of blooming in the spring. This covering should be removed as soon as the snow disappears in the spring, otherwise the tops may start so as to be much injured when uncovered.

FIG 139—Dutch Bulbs.

Beds of hyacinths, tulips, or crocus planted by themselves are often more satisfactory than in mixed beds, unless the quantity of each is small, when the mixed bed may be better. GLADIOLUS are tender bulbs, used for summer decoration, and require but little care and give a large amount of showy blossoms.

Tender Bedding-plants.

The number of tender bedding-plants that may be used for the decoration of home grounds is very great, but the limits of this work will allow of (he description of only a few of the most important. Some of them are obtained by starting from seed, some by division of root, and many of them by cuttings rooted under glass.  Among those started from seeds are:

FIG. 140—Sweet Pea (Lathyrus odoratus).

SWEET PEA (Lathyrus odoratus), Fig. 140.—This plant is becoming so popular, and deservedly so, that special directions for its growth are given. It is easily grown and the seed is so cheap that there is no excuse for any one being without this delightful flower. For the best results a rich, cool soil is required and the seed should be planted as early in the spring as the ground will work up fine and mellow. Sow the seed 3 to 4 inches deep, or perhaps better plant them in a trench 4 inches deep, but covering only 2 inches deep at planting, and fill up to the level in the process of cultivating. Various kinds of supports are used, but the neatest and the cheapest support in the end is common poultry-netting 3 feet wide stretched firmly on strong posts. Constant picking of the flowers will tend to increase the time of blooming, for if no seed is matured the strength of the plants will go to the production of flowers. Nothing exhausts the vitality of plants so much as the production of seed.

Of the many other varieties of plants that are grown from seed space will not permit of description; but we give a list of some of the best:

Alyssum, Amaranthus tricolor, Snapdragon, Asters, Balsams, Calendula, Calliopsis, Candytuft, Centaurea {Dusty-miller), Coxcomb, Cosmos, Dahlia, Datura, Escholt-zia, Golden Feverfeiv, Marigold, Mignonette, Petunias, Poppies, Portulacca, Nasturtium,  Verbena, etc.

Some of the best of the bedding plants that are grown from cuttings are:

Alternanthera, Alyssum, Coleus, Geraniums, Heliotrope, Salvias, etc.

Tender Climbing Plants.

Some of the best tender climbers are:

Canary-bird Flower, Cobea, Cypress-vine, German Ivy, English Ivy, Morning-glory, Star-cucumber, Nasturtium, etc.
 
Subtropical Plants.

Canna.                                     Banana, Abyssinian.
Castor-bean.                            Blue-gum Tree.
Caladium.                                 Cacti.
Papyrus, Egyptian.                    Hydrangia (tender).
Strongly marked features in lawn or in garden may be produced by the use of subtropical plants, i.e., those with large leaves or large growth of stem and flowers. They may be so grouped together as to render otherwise tame landscape views attractive. Most of these plants being tender and requiring a rich and moist, warm soil, cannot be put out until the ground has become well warmed and are better to be started under glass and grown to considerable size if immediate effect is desired. Among those that can be most easily grown and give the best results are the following:

FIG. 141—Canna {Canna Indica).

FIG. 142—Castor-Bean (Ricinus communis).

CANNAS {Canna Indica), Fig. 141.—These rapid-growing plants vary from 1 to 6 feet in height, and in foliage from the brightest green to a very dark purple, and with a great variety of blossoms, especially the new strains of the French and hybrid cannas, which are exceedingly showy and beautiful. The tubers are easily preserved in any warm, dry cellar, and are rapidly propagated by division in March or April. For those who have no greenhouses the window-box or a shallow box of soil placed behind the kitchen stove or in a light, warm cellar will serve a very good place in which to propagate them. The tubers should be cut into single eyes or buds, covered with 2 or 3 inches of rich, sandy soil, and the temperature kept at about 65°, when they will quickly start into growth, and be ready for transplanting to the open ground about June 1st. In grouping cannas the best results are obtained by placing varieties side by side, with as great a contrast of foliage or color of flowers as possible; the larger ones in the centre of the bed or group and the smaller ones on the outside. Most of the leading florists and seed- and plant-dealers now offer an abundance of beautiful varieties at low prices, and when a small stock is once obtained by a little skill in keeping them through the winter it may be increased very rapidly. CASTOR-BEAN (Ricinus communis), Fig. 142.—This plant is especially ornamental on account of its broad lobed leaves, large showy panicle of flowers, and fruit-pods. The seed should be started under glass in April, and be grown to a foot or more in height before planting out to obtain results early in the season. They should not be put out into the open ground, however, until about June 1st. As a single specimen in the centre of a large bed or as the background for other small foliage-plants they are very effective.

FIG.  143—Caladium (Caladium esculentum).

CALADIUMS (Caladium esculentum), Fig. 143.—The leaves of this plant are broad and heart-shaped, often 2 feet across, and hanging obliquely on the leaf-stalk make very beautiful borders for beds of cannas or castor-bean plants, or they make pleasing single specimens on the lawn. It is also especially useful among rockwork and on the border of water. It requires the same treatment as the canna, though perhaps more heat in starting them into growth than the latter.

EGYPTIAN PAPER-REED OK PAPYRUS {Papyrus anti-quorum), Fig. 144.—This beautiful plant is being much less used than it should be. It is one of the most beautiful and easily grown plants, either on the lawn, in ordinary garden soil, or on the borders of ponds or basins of fountains. Plants in 6- or 8-inch pots planted in early June will make clumps that would fill a 15-inch pot and be 8 feet high by September. It is best wintered over in a warm greenhouse and should have an abundance of water. Probably it could be carried over in a warm cellar, but I know of no instance of its having been done.

FIG. 144—Egyptian Papyrus (Papyrus antiquorum).

ABYSSINIAN BANANA {Mum ensete), Pig. 145.—In a warm, sheltered location, where the wind will not whip and lash the leaves, this is one of the grandest of the subtropical plants. For the best results the seed should be started under glass at least one year before they are wanted for outdoor work, at which time they should be 4 feet high and in 10-inch pots. In a warm, rich soil such plants will grow to 10 feet in height in a single season and nothing gives a more tropical effect on the lawn or in the garden. Plants may be wintered over in a warm, dry cellar or in a cool  greenhouse  and   be   made  to   serve  two   or  three summers' decoration.

Fig. 145—Abyssinian Banana (Musa ensete).

THE BLUE-GUM TREE (Eucalyptus globulus). — The beautiful blue or glaucous color of the foliage of this tree together with its rapid growth makes it very useful upon the lawn. It is even more glaucous than the best of the Colorado blue spruces, and in contrast with the dark foliage of evergreens, purple beeches, plums, etc., the effect is very beautiful.    The plants must be started about a year before wanted and be kept growing, when they will reach from 4 to 6 feet in height. Such plants out of doors and in rich soil will grow to 10 or 12 feet in one season. They can he carried over for a second year's decoration by moving to a cool greenhouse before severe frosts.

CACTI.—Many species of these unique and picturesque plants may be used for outdoor decoration during the summer, and especially in connection with ledges and rock-work, where they are very appropriate. None of the large species are hardy and must be wintered in a cool greenhouse or very dry cellar. The plants when thus set out make a clean, healthy growth during the summer, and need to be kept very dry during the winter. It is generally better to plunge the pots rather deep in the ground than to turn them out, especially if the soil is inclined to be dry.

TENDER HYDRANGEAS {Hydrangea hortensis).—This species is largely used for veranda and lawn decoration. Its immense, rounded panicles of flowers, white when they first open, change to shades of pink and violet-purple under varying conditions of soil and exposure. They may be kept over winter in a warm, dry cellar, giving them just water enough to keep the branches from becoming wilted. The time for bringing them from the cellar and starting into growth may vary according to the time they are desired in bloom. For early blooming the last of March, and for July and August blooming they need not be started into growth until May.

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