Chapter 12 - Ornamental Shrubs, Climbing Vines And Hedge Plants

How to use with best effect
Transplanting, pruning, etc
Best varieties of evergreen shrubs
Importance of climbing shrubs
Best varieties of climbing shrubs
Hedge plants.

Flowering shrubs and those with brilliantly colored foliage are to ornamental gardening what the finishing touches are to the picture or the varnishing is to furniture. They help to fill out the well-rounded forms of groups of trees and, possessing more variety of colors of flowers and foliage than the large trees, they add beautiful bits of color to often otherwise tame garden-work. Being small in size, they are especially useful in planting places of small extent, are comparatively inexpensive, and reach maturity in a very short time. They are very useful in ornamenting the foreground where it is desired to take in views above and beyond the limits of small grounds, and serve the purpose of a setting or ornamentation close up to the dwelling and over which may be viewed the more extended lawn decoration. Among the most desirable are the following:

Azalea, Pink.                                        Pepper-bush, Sweet.
"     Flame-colored.                               Dogwood, Red-twigged.
"      Vasey's.                                        "        Variegated
"      Japanese.                                      Filbert, Purple leaved.
"     Ghent.                                            Quince, Japanese.
Aralia, Hercules-club.                           Daphne.
"     Japanese.                                       Deutzia, Double-flowered.
Barberry, Am.                                      "        Slender.
"       Dwarf.                                         Weigela, Rose-flowered.
Weigela, Variegated.                            Elder, Red-fruited.
Silver-thorn.                                         Spiraea, Golden.
Strawberry-tree.                                   "       Bridal-wreath.
"   Corky-barked.                                 "      Lobed.
Exchorda.                                             "       Bumald's.
Golden-bell.                                         "       Thunberg's.
"        "    Fortune's.                               "       Van Houtt's.
"        "    Weeping.                               Snowberry.
Silver-bell                                             Indian Currant.
Hose of Sharon.                                   Lilac, Common.
Hydrangea, Japanese.                           "     Persian.
St. John's-wort, Shrubby.                     "     Japanese Tree.
Honeysuckle, Tartarian.                        "     Josikea.
Mock-orange.                                      "     Downy.
"         Golden.                                      Cranberry-shrub.
"         Large-flowered.                         Snowball, Japanese.
Purple Fringe (Smoke-tree).                 Roses, Bedding.
White Fringe.                                        "      Moss.
Sumac, Cut-leaved.                              "      Climbing.
"       Japanese.                                     "     Japanese.
Elder, Golden.                                      Rose, Japanese Running.

PINK AZALEA (Azalea (Rhododendron) nudiflora).—One of the most beautiful of our native shrubs and one that succeeds best in rather cool, shaded places. It is easily transplanted and may be very successfully moved from the borders of woods to the lawn if taken in clumps with something of a bog of soil upon the roots. The plants are improved, however, if taken up and grown in a cool, somewhat shaded nursery for a year or two before transplanting permanently.

FLAME-COLORED AZALEA (A. (R.) calendulacea).—A beautiful species from the mountainous regions of the South and requiring a little protection in New England, but well worth the little care required to protect it by setting up pine boughs about them or by tying up in a thin covering of straw or mats during the winter. It succeeds under the same treatment as the last.

VASEY'S AZALEA (A. (Ii.) Vaseyii).—A comparatively new species, also a native of the Southern States, with beautiful light pink or rose-colored flowers, and thus far has proved hardy. It promises to be a valuable addition to our list of early-blooming shrubs.

JAPAN AZALEAS (A. mollis), Fig. 95.—The flowers of this species are of a great variety of colors, ranging from almost pure white through various shades of yellow and orange to that of dark orange-red. It is perfectly hardy, but rather slow in growth, requiring a moist soil and a little shelter from drying winds and hot sun.

FIG. 95—Japanese Azalea (Azalea mollis).

GHENT AZALEAS (A. pontica, hybrida).—The flowers of this species are very similar in colors to the last and require about the same treatment.

HERCULES'-CLUB (Arajia spinosa). — An interesting shrub, with large compound leaves and a heavy panicle of white flowers coming in August. It has the habit of producing suckers that, if left to themselves, are not desirable, but by pulling up such as are not wanted those remaining grow luxuriantly and the mass is kept in a satisfactory condition. It succeeds best in a somewhat sheltered, warm, but rich soil.

JAPANESE ARALIA (A. Japonica).—This species resembles the last very much, but with rather smaller and finer leaves, requiring the same treatment.

AMERICAN BARBERRY ( Berberis vulgaris), Fig. 96.— This beautiful shrub is common throughout the Eastern and Northern States, and were it less common would be more prized as an ornamental shrub. It grows with little care and no shrub is more beautiful, with its golden drooping clusters of flowers in June and its bright scarlet fruit in autumn and winter. It has the tendency to make a rather straggling bush, but may be forced to take a compact bushy form by heading back severely some of the strong new shoots on the inside when they have reached the height of 2 or 3 feet.    It makes a very desirable hedge.

FIG. 96—Barberry (Berberis vulgaris), Fruit.

PURPLE-LEAVED BARBERRY (B. V., var. purpurea).— One of the smallest purple-leaved shrubs and one of the best. It retains its dark purple color through the season better than almost any other tree or shrub, and is especially desirable to plant in the foreground of golden or light green leaved trees or shrubs. Its golden flowers are rather more conspicuous on the dark purple background of its leaves than those of the common type, but the fruit is not so conspicuous. It needs frequent heading in while young to bring it into a compact bushy form.

FIG. 97—Sweet Pepper-Bush (Clethra alnifolia).

DWARF BARBERRY (B. Thunbergii).—A beautiful dwarf shrub from Japan, not growing more than 3 feet high, and taking a broad compact form. Its leaves are small and numerous, changing to a beautiful orange and red color in the autumn, and the fruit, about the same size as the native species, is borne singly along the underside of the drooping branches.  It is especially desirable for low hedges, lines, or borders.

FIG. 98.—Variegated Dogwood (Cornus  Siberiea, variegatus).

SWEET PEPPER-BUSH {Clethra alnifolia), Fig. 97.—A very hardy native shrub, producing abundant spikes of beautiful fragrant white flowers in July. It has the habit of spreading by sucker and needs care that too many of these are not allowed to grow; otherwise the flowers will be small and less abundant. It thrives best in a rather moist, somewhat shaded locality.

RED DOGWOOD (Cornus sanguinea).—A beautiful shrub of large size and especially valuable for winter effect. The branches are bright red, and planted in contrast with low-trained golden willow with the snow for a background very beautiful results are often obtained. A group of evergreens in front of this shrub also gives a good contrast.

VARIEGATED-LEAVED DOGWOOD (C. Siberica, variegata), Fig. 98.—The leaves of this shrub are most beautifully variegated with yellow, white, and green, and make pleasing contrasts with dark green or purple leaved shrubs. The branches are of the same color as those of the last.

PURPLE-LEAVED FILBERT {Corylus avellana, var. atro-purpurea).—This shrub has the darkest foliage of any that I am acquainted with. When it first unfolds it is almost black, but it soon changes to a rich bronze green. It is one of the best for planting in contrast with the golden-leaved elder, golden spirsea, the variegated dogwood, or other shrubs with bright-colored foliage. It should not be forced too rapidly while young, as it is not quite hardy in the extreme Northern States, A purple form of the common hazelnut, G. Americana, has recently been discovered by the author but has not been put on the market. From its hardiness, ease of growth, and beautiful foliage it promises to be one of the best purple-leaved shrubs.

JAPAN QUINCE (Cydonia Japonica), Fig. 99.—One of the most hardy and vigorous of the imported shrubs. The flowers are mostly scarlet, but varying from this through many shades of red and pink to pure white, and as they open before the leaves unfold produce very brilliant effects. Its tough, hard growth makes it valuable for hedges, which are very ornamental when in blossom.

DAPHNE (Daphne mezeron).—This is the earliest bloomer of all flowering shrubs, and its close clusters of dull pink flowers, though not very large or showy, are very pretty harbingers of spring.

DOUBLE-FLOWERED DEUTZIA (Deutzia crenata,fl. pi.).—
 
A tall, upright-growing shrub with dark green leaves and pendent racemes of pink or white flowers. It tends to grow with few lower branches, and some of the inside caries need cutting out occasionally to give it a branching condition.    If forced into too much growth it often winter-kills.

FIG. 99—Japan Quince (Cydonia Japonica).

SLENDER DEUTZIA (D. gracilis).—One of the most beautiful small shrubs with delicate white flowers in abundant racemes. Like the last, it should be grown rather slowly or it will be injured during the winter. A slight protection of pine boughs or straw will improve the size and quantity of the flowers.

FIG. 100—Weigela (Diervilla rosea).

ROSE-FLOWERED WEIGELA (Diervilla rosea), Fig. 100. —While young this beautiful shrub is very satisfactory, but after a few years' growth it becomes irregular in outline. To overcome this tendency some of the old wood should be cut out each year after flowering, which will result in the growth of young vigorous shoots that will produce an abundance of large flowers.

VARIEGATED-LEAVED WEIGELA (W.rosea, variegata).— The  leaves  of  this variety are beautifully marked with white, yellow, and light green; not so rapid in growth as the last and the flowers are of a lighter color.

Several other species and varieties are offered by the nurserymen, bat none of them are more valuable than the above.

SILVER-THORN OR OLEASTER (Eleagnus longipes).—A comparatively new ornamental shrub with fruit of a bright red color which is very ornamental. It ripens in July and August and hangs a long time on the bushes. It is almost perfectly hardy, easily transplanted, and seems to succeed in almost any soil.

  FIG. 101—Exochorda Grandiflora.

STRAWBERRY-TREE {Euonymus atropurpurea).—A tall-growing shrub or small tree with rich dark green foliage and a showy fruit, the outer part of which is crimson while the inner part is scarlet. This fruit hangs upon the bush nearly all winter unless eaten by birds.

CORKY-BARKED STRAWBERRY-TREE (E. alatus).—More compact and bushy than the last and with a richer foliage, but does not produce so much fruit.

EXOCHORDA (Exochorda grandiflora), Fig. 101.—One of the best of the recently introduced shrubs. The foliage is of a glaucous green color and the flowers are single, pure white, and borne in large clusters and masses. It is hardy, very showy, and free from disease and insects.

FIG. 102—Golden-Bell, (Forsythia viridissima),

GOLDEN-BELL (Forsythia viridissima), Fig. 102.—The brightest and most attractive of the very early flowering shrubs. The flowers are of the brightest yellow and produced all over the young branches. The shoots are perfectly hardy, but in seasons when the peach-buds are destroyed by cold the flower-buds suffer and at the North fail to produce flowers.

FORTUNE'S GOLDEN-BELL (F. Fortunii). — Produces more abundant and larger flowers than the last.

WEEPING GOLDEN-BELL (F. suspensa).—Is pendent or weeping in habit and with very abundant flowers. In many places where a drooping growth is desired this is much superior to the other species.

SILVER-BELL (Halesia tetraptera).—A beautiful shrub producing pure white bell-shaped flowers much like the snowdrop, whence its name.

EOSE OF SHARON (Hibiscus Syriacus).—This shrub, while not perfectly hardy north of New York City, is valuable on account of its large showy flowers, which open in August and September. If grown slowly in the border or lawn, it lives to considerable age and makes a very large shrub or small tree. The flowers vary in color from pure white to the darkest crimson and with many beautiful varieties of striped or mixed colors.

JAPANESE HYDRANGEA (Hydrangea paniculata, grandi-flora), Fig. 103.—Of the many beautiful shrubs introduced from Japan this is one of the best, most easily grown, and largely planted. The flowers, coming in August and September, are very large and showy and last a long time. If gathered at just the right stage of growth the flowers retain their beauty and freshness for a long time and make desirable decorations during the winter. To get the best results in growing this shrub, the new growth should be cut back severely in the fall or before growth begins in the spring, in many cases to two or three buds, for the smaller the  number of buds allowed to grow the stronger the shoots, and the size of the panicles will be in proportion to the vigor of these shoots.

 
FIG. 103—Pterostyrax (Pterostyrax hispida).

PTEROSTYRAX (Pterostyrax hispida).—One of the most beautiful large flowering shrubs. It requires a deep, rather light soil and a little shelter. Should be more generally planted than it now is.

SHRUBBY ST. JOHN'S-WORT (Hypericum aureum).—One of the most beautiful of the flowering shrubs, the flowers being like little tassels of gold and the foliage of a rich glaucous green. It is not, however, a long-lived shrub, requiring considerable petting after five or six years of growth.

TARTARIAN HONEYSUCKLE (Lonicera Tartarica. — Some of the more brilliantly colored flowered varieties of this species are very desirable. It makes a very large, upright shrub, with pink or yellow blossoms that are followed by bright scarlet berries.

CALYCANTHUS, sweet-scented shrub, strawberry-bush, etc, {Calycanthus Floridus), Fig. 104.-—A very hardy, vigorous growing shrub with brown or chocolate-colored very sweet-scented flowers. It is easily propagated from seed, which it produces abundantly, and grows well on almost all kinds of soil; not a showy shrub, but desirable for the fragrance of its flowers.

MOCK-ORANGE (Philadelphus coronarius), Fig. 105.— Often called the syringa, but as this is the Latin name of the lilac it cannot be properly applied to this plant. It is well called the mock-orange, for its flowers somewhat resemble the orange-blossom, and are equally fragrant, though with not so delicate a perfume. It grows to a large size, but retains its regular rounded bush form even when of great age.

Fig. 104—Calycanthus (Calycanthus Floridus).

GOLDEN-LEAVED MOCK-ORANGE (P. c, var. aurea).— Very similar in leaf and flower to the last, but of a smaller growth, and with leaves that are of a bright golden color when young, but changing to a light green during the latter part of the summer.    In contrast with the purple barberry, purple filbert, or other similarly colored foliage-shrubs it produces most beautiful effects.

FIG. 105—Mock-Orange (Philadelphus coronarius).

LARGE-FLOWERED MOCK-ORANGE (P. grandiflorus), Fig. 106.—A shrub of large, coarse growth, producing conspicuous single, white, non-odorous flowers the last of June.

WHITE-FRINGE (Chonanthus Virginicus), Fig. 77.— One of the most beautiful of our flowering shrubs, with its somewhat stiff upright branches fringed with lace-like white flowers. Its blossoms last but a short time, but the heavy dark green foliage is ornamental all summer. If planted in too rich soil it is sometimes winter-killed, and should be grown rather slowly to cause a more thorough ripening of the wood.

PURPLE-FRINGE (Rhus cotinus), Fig. 107.—The beautiful mass of filaments produced about the flowers and fruit of this plant, often called " smoke " or " mist," is a most conspicuous and beautiful object in well-grown specimens on the lawn or in the garden. To succeed best it must be grown slowly; if forced into a rapid growth in a rich border it is likely to be injured by cold and soon die, while if grown more slowly in the lawn it often reaches a large size, when it becomes a most beautiful object.

FIG. 106.—Mock-Orange, Large-Fi.Owered {Philadelphus grandiflorus).

FIG. 107—Purple-Feinge (Rhus cotinus).

CUT-LEAVED SUMAC (R. glabra, var. laciniata).—This is a cut-leaved form of our native smooth sumac. It takes a rather straggling form and needs full exposure to make it grow stocky and erect. It has one objectionable feature common to all of the native species of sumacs,—that of throwing up suckers from the roots, and often at considerable distance from the original shrub,—but this objection can be easily overcome by pulling up the suckers (never cut them off at the surface). Its beautiful fern-like leaves that color so brilliantly in the autumn make it well worth all the care required to keep it in good form and within desired limits.

JAPAN SUMAC (11. Japonica, var. Osbeckii).—A very large, strong-growing shrub or small tree, with large compound leaves changing to beautiful colors in the autumn. The panicles of flowers are very large, nearly pure white, and open very late in the summer.

GOLDEN ELDER (Sambucus nigra, var. aurea).—One of the brightest golden-colored shrubs, the leaves retaining their bright color longer than almost any other. It is, however, rather short-lived.

RED-FRUITED ELDER (S. pubens).—A native shrub, ornamental both in flower and in fruit. Berries in large clusters and bright red.

GOLDEN SPIRǼA (Spirǽa opulifolia, aurea).—The largest golden-leaved shrub we have, but of rather coarse growth and the leaves soon fade to a light green. Desirable as a background for smaller shrubs of a darker color.

FIG. 108—Bridal-Wreath (Spirǽa prunifolia).

BRIDAL-WEEATH SPIRǼA (S. prunifolia), Fig. 108.— One of the oldest and most hardy of the spirseas and very largely planted. It produces long, slender branches that in the spring are covered with beautiful white doable flowers. These branches may be bent around so as to form a very perfect wreath, whence the name. It has the habit of producing very few lateral branches, so that severe pruning should be given to a few of the strongest canes after blooming in the spring. Never prune the spiraeas in the spring before blooming if an abundance of flowers is desired. Like all the other species of this genus, the flowers last but a short time.

LOBED-LEAVED SPIRǼA (S. trilobata).—A dwarf, compact grower, producing large masses of white flowers.

BUMALD'S SPIRǼA (S. Japonica, var. Bumalda).—A dwarf-growing shrub, with large quantities of rose-colored flowers.

THUNBERG'S SPIRǼA (S. Thunbergii). — The most graceful and beautiful of the spirǽa while young. The foliage is fine and fern-like, and changes to a beautiful golden-orange color late in the autumn. It needs cutting back severely to cause the lower branches to grow with vigor.

VAN HOUTT'S SPIRǼA (S. Van Houttii), Fig. 109.—The finest of all the spirgeas. It is dwarf in habit, with graceful pendulous branches that, when in bloom, are weighted down with pure white blossoms. The flowers are of very short duration, but the foliage is good.

WATERER'S SPIRǼA (S. Jap., var. "Anthony Waterer "). —Resembling the Bumalda, but with the most beautiful large clusters of pink flowers, and continues to bloom throughout the summer more or less if the clusters are cut off before the seed-vessels mature.

SNOWBERRY-SHRUB   (Symphoricarpus  racemosus). — A very pretty old-fashioned shrub, the white berries of which are ornamental until early winter and especially in contrast with the fruit of the closely allied species S. vulgaris, the Indian currant, or that of the barberry.

FIG. 109—van houtt's spirǼa {Spirǽa Van Houttii).

COMMON LILAC (Syringa vulgaris).—-This is a very desirable shrub because of its hardiness and the many associations connected with the old homesteads of the earlier settlers of the country. Many of the improved varieties possess more beauty than the original types and are equally hardy. Among the hest are Beranger, coerulea superba and nana, Prof. Sargent, etc.

PERSIAN LILAC (S. Persica).—This lilac is of medium size, with small, bright green leaves and large compound panicles of rather brighter flowers than the common species. It is also rather more graceful in outline than the latter and, like it, has a great many varieties. Among the best are the white form and Rothmagensis rubra.

JAPAN LILAC (S. Japonica).—The largest of the lilacs, making a small tree. The leaves are large, dark green, and the very large panicles of white flowers are produced in June. It has thus far proved perfectly hardy and is desirable.

JOSIKEA'S LILAC (8. Josikcea). — Another tree-like lilac, somewhat resembling the last, but producing delicate pink flowers in early Juno.

DOWNY LILAC (L. villosa).—A new species of a somewhat tree-like habit, with fragrant light purple flowers which change to almost white.

CRANBERRY-SHRUB ( Viburnum opulus).—A native shrub with numerous conspicuous sterile flowers intermixed with the fertile ones, followed by bright red or scarlet fruit that hangs on the branches nearly all winter. It is hardy and succeeds under nearly all conditions. The variety with all sterile flowers is known as the " common snowball "-bush, but this is so subject to the attack of insects that it has been discarded for the Japanese species.

JAPANESE SNOWBALL ( V. plicatum), Tig. 110.—The leaves of this shrub are of a bright green color and with a beautifully plicated or plaited surface; the sterile flowers are borne in large clusters, are pure white, very perfect, and much superior to the native snowball-bush. It is difficult to transplant when of large size, but young shrubs can be transplanted with little or no difficulty.

Roses.

More people appreciate the beauty and value of the rose than that of any other flower, but comparatively few succeed in growing it to its greatest perfection. It succeeds best in a deep rich soil, rather moist and of somewhat a clayey nature. More persons fail in growing the rose from not making the soil rich enough than from any other cause.

Perhaps the best line of treatment is to spade the bed 18 to 24 inches deep, working in fine rotted cow manure and leaf mould to the full depth, and every fall banking up against each plant a foot or more with rich stable manure for protection. In the spring this manure should be spread on the surface of the bed and spaded in, and if the soil is not too thin and dry a good growth and an abundance of blossoms will result.

PRUNING.—In pruning the work may be done either in the fall or in March, the latter time being generally preferred. In this work the bushes should be so pruned as to obtain a limited number of as strong canes as possible. The stronger the canes the larger will be the flowers. All weak shoots should be either severely cut back or entirely removed and the strong canes headed back one half or two thirds, varying the treatment somewhat with the variety and the size and number of flowers required; some varieties, especially the very strong growing ones, needing less pruning than others, but with all varieties the smaller the number of shoots the larger will be the flowers.

WINTER PROTECTION.—Banking up against the collar of the bashes a foot or more with soil or manure should be practiced with all outdoor roses, and most of them will be much benefited by tying up in coarse rye-straw or mats. Pine boughs set up closely about them for the winter will improve the quality of the blossoms very greatly.

VARIETIES.—We may divide the varieties most commonly grown and most desirable into six groups: bedding-roses, hybrid perpetuate, moss, climbing, Japanese, and yellow or Austrian roses. It is impossible to give a list of varieties that will succeed in all localities or under all conditions, and each grower must decide largely what varieties will be the most satisfactory for him by the success of growers in his immediate vicinity. We, however, give a list that will prove valuable under a great variety of conditions.

BEDDING-ROSES, Fig. 111.—Bride, Bridesmaid, Etoile de Lyons, La France, Md. Plantier, Meteor.

HYBRID PERPETUALS.—Anne de Diesbach, Chas. Le-febvre, Gen. Jacqueminot, Mabel Morrison, Marie Beau-man, Marshall P. Wilder, Mrs. John Laing, Prince C. de Rohan,  Ulrich Brunner,  Victor Verdier.

MOSS-ROSES, Fig. 112.— Common Moss, Crested Moss, Adelaide, White Bath.

CLIMBING ROSES, Pig. 113.—Baltimore Belle, Queen of Prairie, Crimson Rambler, Dorothy Perkins (or Pink Rambler).

JAPAN ROSES, Fig. 114.—Rosa rugosa (white and red), R. Mulij-flora, Dawson's, R. Wichuriana.

YELLOW OR AUSTRIAN.—These beautiful roses are not long-lived and require careful pruning to produce an abundance of blossoms. Only the weak shoots should be cut away, leaving the strong shoots of one and two seasons' growth for the production of flowers. The two varieties most commonly grown are the Austrian and Harrison.

Evergreen Shrubs.

If we should omit the evergreen shrubs from our list of ornamantel material, we should lose much that is most beautiful and very popular on all the best places in the country. Nothing can exceed the great beauty of the kalmias and the rhododendron; they add so much beauty and finish to every place where used. In our climate, where the sun shines with great fierceness, they do not sueceed except under conditions of some shelter from the hot sun and drying winds. If possible, naturally protected locations should be selected, but where these are not available artificial protection during the winter must be provided by means of pine boughs, boxes, etc., set up around them. Too close covering should be avoided, as with a very close box, barrel, or close straw covering. All that is required is shelter from fierce drying winds and the burning sun during the winter. If a box is used, it should be with openings on the north or west side, to allow a free circulation of air about them.  Some of the best varieties are

Boxwood.                                Rhododendron Maxima.
Laurel, Mountain.                     "           Catawbiense.
Holly, Am.                                Andromeda.

FIG. 114—Japanese Rose (Rosa rugosa).

BOXWOOD (BUXUS sempervirens).—This little beautiful evergreen shrub is fast becoming extinct in the northern sections of the Middle and Eastern States, where a quarter of a century ago it was largely used for a low hedge or border or as specimen plants. It succeeds best in a rather moist, somewhat shaded place, but soon fails where planted in thin soil or a southern exposure. "Where a low, formal outline is desired for edges of walks or beds, it serves a good purpose, but lacks the graceful natural beauty of the, laurel or Mahonia.

MOUNTAIN-LATJKEL (Kalmia latifolia). — One of the most beautiful evergreen shrubs in the world, found growing wild in nearly every State east of the Rockies in hilly or mountainous regions. It succeeds best in partial shade or cool northern slopes and in rather moist soil. It is difficult to transplant, and if taken from the fields or woods only small plants must be used and these must be dug with a considerable bog of earth upon the roots. If planted in a very much exposed situation, protection of pine boughs should be given during the winter.

AMERICAN HOLLY {Ilex opaca).—A native shrub with leaves and berries closely resembling the European holly. In exposed places north of Washington, D. C, the leaves turn dark brown during the winter and are often injured by the hot sun. Should be planted in shelter, shaded from the hot sun and protected during the winter with pine boughs.

RHODODENDRON, GREAT LAUREL (R. maxima).—A native shrub found growing in shady places along the coast from Maine to Florida. Not very much used, but would serve a good purpose if planted in the shade in rather moist, porous soil.

MOUNTAIN-RHODODENDRON (R. Catawbiense), Fig. 115.—The most showy of all of the flowering shrubs when in bloom and during the winter on account of its large dark green leaves. It succeeds best in a rather moist, fibrous soil, but does well in almost any kind if it is made porous, not too dry, and if the plants are sheltered from the burning sun during the winter. While young especially, pine boughs or some other protection should be put up around them to keep the leaves from burning and to keep off fierce drying winds.

FIG. 115—Rhododendron Catawbiense.

The number of varieties offered by nurserymen is very large, but a comparatively small number of them are hardy in northern New England. Some of the best varieties for general planting are Album elegans, Everestianum, Superla elegans, Roseum elegans, Speciosa, etc.

ANDROMEDA (Andromeda floribunda).—Avery pretty shrub, producing an abundance of white flowers in the early spring. Requires much the same treatment as the rhododendron.

Climbing Vines.

Without climbing vines many beautiful homes would present a sad and unprotected picture during our hot summers. They grow quickly, cover verandas, porticoes, porches, arbors, walls, fences, etc., with a living green that is far more beautiful than any artificial structure and affording grateful shade during our hot summer days. Fig. 116 shows a vine-covered cottage in June, covered with roses, Actinidia arguta and Ampelopsis Virginiana, with a group of ferns at the foot of the porch on the right. On the left is a large specimen of Phiiladelphus coronarius, while on the right is one of Philadelphus grandiflora. Fig. 117, vine-covered cottage in April. Among the best of this group are the following:

Woodbine, Japanese.                           Honeysuckle, Japanese.
"         American.                                  Wistaria, Chinese.
Clematis or Virgin's-bower.                  "         White.
"       White.                                          Kokwa or Actinidia.
"        Jackman's.                                  Trumpet-creeper.
"        Jap. Sweet-scented.

WOODBINE (Ampelopsis quinquefolid).—This beautiful native vine is very useful for covering arbors, trellises, verandas, fences, half-dead  trees,  stumps,  etc.  It is a rapid grower, is beautiful in foliage and in fruit, especially in its autumnal tints. It is also free from insect or fungous attacks, but requires some support on smooth surfaces, as it reaches large size, the tendrils not being strong enough to hold up its increasing weight.

JAPANESE WOODBINE (A. tricuspidata, var. Veitchii), Fig.  118.—By far the finest vine we have for covering stone and brick buildings, walls, etc. It grows rapidly, clings firmly by its numerous disk-tendrils, and does not run across openings formed by doors and windows. It colors up most beautifully in the autumn and is easily propagated from seeds or cuttings.

FIG. 118--Japanese Woodbine (Ampelopsis tricuspidata, var. Veitchii).

VIRGIN'S-BOWEB, (Clematis Virginiana).—A beautiful native climbing shrub, with large clusters of white flowers in July followed in September by the beautiful tasseled fruit. Not much planted in cultivated grounds, but is worthy of cultivation in even the most pretentious places, and would be much more largely used were it not so common along the roadsides and fences.

JACKMAN'S CLEMATIS (G. Jackmanii), Figs. 119.—A beautiful climbing vine,  but,  like  all  of  the   species  of the clematis, the canes are very weak and easily injured or broken. The flowers are intense violet-purple, large, and much out of proportion to the weak vine. When planted in a sheltered place with wire netting to protect it from being broken, it often grows well for several years, but the average experience with it is that it is destroyed in one way or another after a few years' growth.

  Fig. 120—Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera Japonica Halliana).

WHITE CLEMATIS (C. Henryii), Fig. 119.—Flowers of the same size and form as the last, but pure white in color.

JAPANESE OK SWEET-SCENTED CLEMATIS (C. paniculata), Fig. 119.—A rapid-growing vine, producing clusters of star-shaped sweet-scented white flowers in wonderful profusion in September. A promising addition to our list of late-flowering climbing plants.

JAPANESE HONEYSUCKLE (Lonicera Japonica Halliana), Fig. 120. — This vine has the advantage that it will "grow" under almost any condition. The flowers are yellow, changing to a pure white, and are fragrant and abundant from June to September. It should be trained to wire netting or some other support, for if allowed to lie on the ground every branch will take root and it becomes difficult to eradicate it, except by constant pulling and hoeing up of all suckers not desired. With a slight protection of leaves, straw, or pine boughs, or by the vines lying on the ground, the leaves remain perfectly green all winter, but in full exposure they turn brown during the latter part of winter and are anything but ornamental. This is a valuable shrub for covering dry or steep embankments which are difficult to cover with grass.

FIG. 121—Chinese Wistaria (Wistaria sinensis).

CHINESE WISTARIA (Wistaria sinensis), Fig. 121.— One of the most rapid growing vines, producing large pendent panicles of light blue flowers in great profusion. It is one of the few vines that will twine around large supports, pillars of verandas, or arbors.

WHITE WISTARIA (W. s., var. alba).—Like the last in growth, but producing white flowers.

KOKWA OR ACTINIDIA (Actinidia arguta).—More vigorous even than the wistaria and with better foliage, but the flowers are inconspicuous. It will cover an arbor or trellis more quickly than any vine we have. Some of the vines produce a small green fruit that one soon learns to like. Native of Japan.

Another species of Kokwa, A. polygama, has been introduced resembling the last-named species, not so vigorous, but the leaves at the ends of the growing shoots change on the upper surface to a glistening white, making it a most strikingly beautiful vine. Cats are especially fond of it, and while young protection of wire netting needs to be put up around to keep them from tearing the vines in pieces.

FIG. 122—Trumpet-Creeper (Bignonia radicans).

TRUMPET-CREEPER {Bignonia radicans), Fig. 122.— Where hardy, this is a very beautiful and satisfactory climber, though it will not hold itself to the walls of buildings and trellis-supports as well as many others. North of 42° of latitude it must be protected during the winter with some light, airy covering or be grown slowly in grass borders. The trumpet-shaped flowers of a deep orange-red are home in large clusters and form very pleasing contrasts with the dark green foliage.

Hedge-plants.*

Hedge-plants are used for two purposes, i.e., to serve as a boundary-line that shall be more natural and ornamental than a stone wall or fence, and as a protection from animal or other trespassers; and if either of these is a necessity a well-kept hedge serves a very good purpose, though there are few, if any, places where the fence, wall or hedge even can add much to naturally beautiful surroundings. Among the best trees and shrubs for this purpose are the following:

Locust, Honey.                         Rose, Japanese.
Arbor-vitae, Siberian.               Privet.
Hemlock-spruce.                      Buckthorn.
Boxwood.                                Barberry, Common.
Quince, Japanese.                     "           Purple.

SIBERIAN ARBOR-VITǼE {Thuja occidentalis, var. Si-beriva), Fig. 94, page 184.—Already described under "Evergreen Trees."

HEMLOCK-SPRUCE (Abies Canadensis).—Described under " Evergreen Trees." Must be planted in a deep, cool soil with some protection from hot sun and extreme cold northwest winds.

BOXWOOD (BUXUS sempervirens). — Described under " Evergreen Shrubs." Desirable for a small, low hedge or border.

JAPAN QUINCE (Cydonia Japonica), Fig. 99, page 192. —One of the most rapid growing and hardy of our shrubs and especially valuable for hedges. It requires considerable care to keep it in perfect form and should be severely headed in at planting to make it throw up numerous shoots at the base, without which a good hedge cannot be made. It is not a shrub that will bear as close pruning as some others, but if allowed to take a natural bushy form it is very beautiful in flower and has a rich dark green foliage.

HONEY-LOCUST (Gleditchia triacanthos).—None of our deciduous trees makes a hedge that is sure to turn animals or the small boy so effectually as this, when properly treated. As with most trees or large-growing shrubs, severe pruning is required to give them the strong growth of numerous branches at the base, and then each succeeding year if it be cut back from six inches to one foot longer than the last it soon forms a dense mass of strong shoots near the ground, covered with numerous branching spines.

JAPAN ROSE {Rosa multiflora).—This very strong growing rose promises to become a valuable hedge-plant. On account of its vigor of growth and the numerous spines it will turn animals, fruit-thieves, or other trespassers, and is ornamental in flower and fruit. In habit of growth it is compact, thrives in very poor soil, and as yet has never been injured by cold in the vicinity of Amherst and other sections of Massachusetts.

PRIVET (Ligustrum vulgare).—A neat, compact shrub, that stands pruning perhaps quite as well as anything we have. The same treatment as given for the Japan quinces and other hedge-plants is needed as to early formation of lateral branches. Old hedges of this species that have lost their lower branches or that have grown many years at the top only may be renovated by cutting down to within 6 to 10 inches of the ground in the spring before growth begins, when numerous new, strong shoots will come out from the stubs and soon a new and well-formed hedge will result.

BUCKTHORN (Rhamnus catharticus). — Somewhat resembling the last in habit of growth, is hardy and tough, and stands shearing well.

*For treatment of hedges see page 80.

COMMON BARBERRY (Berberis vulgaris).—This may be used as an ornamental hedge and when grown of large size becomes protective. The more strong branches that can be secured at the start of the hedge the better. Close pruning will not give as good results with this species as the more natural growth of the bush obtained by cutting out here and there a cane to correct the form of each shrub and to cause it to thicken up and branch low.

PURPLE BARBERRY (B. V., var. purpurea).—This was fully described under "Ornamental Shrubs." Not quite so vigorous as the last, nor does it make quite so fine a hedge, though the purple foliage and the golden pendent blossoms are very beautiful.

JAPANESE BARBERRY (B. Thunbergii).—This is one of the most beautiful of our small shrubs. It is especially fine when allowed to grow in its most natural form, making a compact, yet light, graceful bush of from 2 to 3 feet high. By cutting out here and there during the summer strong shoots that tend to grow beyond the outline desired, it is kept in a low compact form. Its foliage is small but abundant, of a light green color, changing late in the fall to a bright orange red. The fruit is larger than that of the other species described, borne singly, pendent on the under side of the numerous small branches and hangs for a long time after the leaves have fallen.

FLOWERING HEDGES.—Spirǽas, hydrangias, lilacs, roses, and many other flowering shrubs may be used for hedges and often very pleasing results be obtained. To make the best show, they should be planted at sufficient distance to give each plant full development, and they should be encouraged to make numerous branches at the base. The different species of shrubs will require somewhat different treatment as to pruning to produce the largest show of blossoms. (See Pruning Hedges and Shrubs, pages 79 and 83.) They may be made of one kind, as the hydrangias, lilacs, spirǽas, etc., or many species may be planted together. The largest should be planted in the middle of the group or in the rear of the border when the hedge is made of considerable width. The advantage of the mixed grouping is that something may be had in bloom at nearly all seasons of the year, but it will be almost impossible to make as even and true outline as with shrubs of one kind.

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