Chapter 7 - Renovating And Improving Old Homes

Preserving and improving old trees
Renewing old shrubs and hedges
Renovating old lawns
Removal of fences and walls
Farm home decoration
Combine decoration and forestry
Fruit-trees for ornaments
Construction of farm roads.

The established home is often far more difficult to treat than where the land is clear and new material only is to be used. It often is also the case that there are objectionable features that must be removed before anything like real beauty can be evolved; as, for example: 1st. Trees, shrubs, and vines may be so closely planted and so entangled that none of them can ever be made beautiful objects. This is shown to some extent in Fig. 55. 2d. There may be unnatural embankments, slopes, terraces, or basins. 3d. Bank walls, unsightly fences, and improperly located build-ings. 4th. Unnaturally located and unnecessary walks and drives.

In other cases much valuable material may be found in a condition that, with a little proper care, may be easily improved so as to become objects of great beauty in a much shorter time than if new trees or shrubs were planted.

When a place is taken that has for a long time been under neglect or improper care, the walks overgrown and trees and shrubs more or less a tangled mass, there seems to he but one of two things to do, i.e., to either cut down everything on the place, clear up and grade the land, and begin as in a new place, or to thin out some of the least desirable and trim up those of value and plant other desirable trees and shrubs in proper relation to each other among those standing (removing, of course, such as will absolutely prevent the growth of the new ones), give them careful fertilization, and then remove the old trees as soon as the new ones have made growth enough to serve the desired purpose of ornamentation.

Preserving and Improving Deciduous Trees.

In some cases deciduous trees may be found that by severely heading in, as in Fig. 17, at the dotted lines a, in a few years will become symmetrical and well-formed trees, as in Fig. 18. Such trees as the elm, oak, maple, and many others are very easily renewed in this way, but the evergreens when once they have lost their lower branches can never be renovated without great expense and loss of time.

Renewing Shrubs and Hedges.

Overgrown shrubs may be more easily renewed than large trees, as they will stand more severe pruning. If very much overgrown and in clumps, a part of the main clump may be dug up and the remainder severely headed back, when a wholly new top will be formed. This is illustrated in Figs. 56 and 57.    If the soil be then enriched and a little pinching in of the strong-growing branches that tend to outgrow the others, bushes of large size may be made in a very short time to take perfect form, and often with far less labor and expense than if young shrubs were planted. After being well established, the pruning given should be in the direction of the dotted line a, Fig. 58.

FIG. 56.           FIG. 57.           FIG. 58.
FIGS. 56, 57, 58—A Shrub Divided And Pruned For Transplanting.

Hedges like the honey-locust, Osage orange, buckthorn, privet, and Japan quince, which have long been neglected, may often be renovated by a little heroic treatment. Fig. 58 is a sectional view illustrating the condition in which neglected hedges often are found. By cutting this hedge at the dotted line, and then as the young shoots grow unevenly pinching off the ends of the most vigorous, a uniform height and a low-branching condition may be soon attained, without which no hedge is either ornamental or useful.

A hedge is under some conditions an ornamental feature of a landscape view and often serves as a screen from some unsightly object; but generally there is little of the ornamental or useful about it. Where growing on old places in nine cases out of ten it will be found that more pleasing effects may be obtained by the removal of such a hedge and grass and a few naturally formed trees and shrubs planted about the place occupied by it than by trying to renew its growth. Evergreen hedges, when not too large, may be renewed by the heroic treatment, but it takes several years after heading in for them to become again covered with foliage so as to be ornamental.

For full description and care of hedges see Chapter V.

Hardy Herbaceous Plants.

On many an old place may be found more or less of those most interesting and desirable hardy herbaceous plants, like peonies, phloxes, larkspur, iris, etc., that may be utilized in the decoration of a home. Generally they are root-bound among grass and shrubs, and can never be made of any value unless taken up and transplanted to good, clean, well-enriched soil. In doing this only the strong young roots should be used, and all grass and weeds should be carefully separated from them.

The fall is a good time for this transplanting, though it can be done successfully in the spring before much growth has taken place. If the land in which they are to be transplanted is not in a proper condition, the plants may be put in good garden-soil for a year or two, where they will be greatly improved and be ready for removal when a proper soil-bed is ready for them.

If the owner of a newly purchased old place is not familiar with the trees, shrubs, and plants on the grounds to be renovated, he should consult some one who can tell him of the value of each, that only those of value be saved.

Renovating the Lawn.

The lawn or the grass in and about the grounds of most old places has generally been so long neglected that weeds and wild grasses have taken possession and driven out the finer kinds that give the green velvety carpet, without which any place, no matter how lavishly planned or grandly built, looks unfinished. The first thing to do with the old lawn, if under such conditions that the land can be ploughed or otherwise worked deeply, is to turn the sod under, manure heavily, cultivate thoroughly for one or two years until the wild grasses and weeds are subdued, and then reseed in August or April with  1 to 2 bu. June-grass, 1 to 2 bu. red-top, and 8 lbs. of white clover per acre.* But it more often is the case that there are numerous trees and other objects on an old place that prevent this thorough treatment, and the cultivation of the land to the very doorsteps, for even one or two years, is not a very pleasant thing to contemplate; therefore some other method of renovation must be resorted to. Under these conditions the surface must be graded by shaving off the projections as far as possible, raising up the turf and filling up under it where there are depressions, or grading over the uneven surface with good soil, so as to present an even and flowing outline. Then grass-seed of the same kind and at the same rate per acre as for the new lawn, i.e., 2 bu. red-top, 2 bu. June-grass, and 8 lbs. of white clover (the poorer the soil the more seed should be used), should be sown, raked in with a liberal dressing of fine manure, or fertilizer made as follows: 1500 lbs. of fine-ground bone, 300 lbs. of muriate of potash, and 200 lbs. of nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia, per acre. Treated in this way, if the grass is frequently cut during the summer, a good lawn may be obtained in two or three years.

For new seeding the potash and nitrate of soda should be thoroughly worked in with the soil some time before the seed is sown.

The specially prepared lawn-dressings are equally good in place of the above fertilizers, but more expensive.

Smoothing Abrupt Slopes and Embankments.

As far as possible all abrupt slopes and embankments should be graded down into well-rounded and graceful out-lines. Such grades are much more beautiful than abrupt terraces or slopes, more easily cared for, and there is no danger from injury by the turf sliding down or being broken down by stepping upon it in the spring as the frost is working out of the ground.

It is often possible to remove unsightly bank walls and grade over the place with graceful rounded outlines that are more natural and beautiful, and wherever possible this should be done. By excavating in front of the bank wall, as in Fig. 59, a space may be obtained in which to cover up the stones if they are needed for no other purpose, when the surface may be sloped off at line BB.

FIG. 59—Covering Up Bank Wall.

In some cases, however, where the house is located on a very steep slope and very near the street, a retaining-wall becomes a necessity, under which condition the only way that the unnaturalness of the surface can be hidden is by covering the wall with climbing vines like the Japanese woodbine (Ampelopsis Vietchii), Fig. 118, page 214, or by planting a row or border of shrubs or small evergreen trees in front of the wall.

Deep ditches and basins that cannot be easily graded over with material at hand often serve as a place for dumping rocks and other materials that may be gathered about the place or along the roadside, thus working great improvement in two directions. The small stones also will serve as the best kind of foundation for the walks and drives, while the good soil removed from the walk or road-bed will serve for grading or dressing over the uneven surfaces in other parts of the grounds or by the roadside.

* See Chapter III on Lawns.

Removal of Fences.

All fences are objectionable in view of their unnatural-ness, lack of beauty, the expense of building and keeping in repair, and wherever they can be dispensed with it is economy to remove them.

Except in the village lot, where footpaths are likely to be formed by constant crossing, there is no good reason why fences may not be wholly dispensed with. It is sometimes the case in the country that cattle must be driven along the roadway every day to and from pasture, when a fence may be needed, but where there is only small chance of injury it is better to suffer the lesser of two evils.   A stone wall may often be covered from view by a bank of soil against it, as in Fig. 60.

FIG. 60—Turfing Against Bank Wall.

Whatever fence is maintained should be as simple and inconspicuous as possible.

Improperly Located Buildings.

The greatest source of difficulty in improving established grounds is often found in improperly located buildings. We can easily dig up here and there a tree or prune them to good form and transplant shrubs and herbaceous plants with little cost, but to relocate buildings often entails great expense. One of the greatest mistakes made in locating buildings is in placing them too near the street and too closely together.

The main buildings can seldom be moved or changed without considerable cost, but the relocation of small buildings can often be easily made.

If possible, all the buildings should be located some distance from the street and far enough from the boundary-line to allow of some decorative trees and shrubs on every side of them, to serve as a setting for the central part of the home-picture, the house.

In case the buildings are nearly or quite on the line all the view to be obtained must be dependent upon that provided or allowed by neighbors, and the only thing that can be done to improve the beauty of the buildings is to plant vines to grow upon the wall or upon a trellis very close up to it.

If possible, the outbuildings should be located in the rear of the dwelling, at some distance from it, and more or less screened from the latter and from outside view, unless they are more or less ornamental in character. The exposed view of a neat, comfortable stable is not objectionable, as it may be so arranged as to give the air of substantial comfort and extent to the grounds not to be found where only the house is in view.

Improperly Located Walks and Drives.

One of the most frequent faults to be found on an old place is improperly located walks and drives.
The proper location of these necessities of comfort is of the greatest importance, and the reader is referred to Chapter VI, where the matter is more fully discussed.

It mast be borne in mind in the construction of roads and walks under all circumstances that a good road cannot be made no matter what the material used unless the road-bed is thoroughly under drained, and the surface of the road or walk must have more or less curve or slope toward the sides to carry off the surface-water. The finer and poorer the material used, the greater this curve must be.

Wherever it is possible one or more lines of tile should be placed under the road-bed, at least three feet deep, with a good fall and free outlet for drainage.

The extent of the walks and drives should be limited to the actual needs of the place. The fewer the graveled walks or roads the better; yet a place without at least a walk up to the front door, or a smooth drive to the stable, would look inhospitable or almost uninhabited.

While there is no beauty in walks and drives in themselves, yet if well laid out in graceful curves just where they are needed, and are well cared for, the variety they afford and the air of comfort and the inviting hospitality they give to a place make them very important factors in all home landscape work.

In many cases the relocation of walks and drives is simply a matter of ploughing up the old one, grading a little and relocating, as a majority of these walks are made on the surface of the ground without previous subsoil preparation. If, however, a road-bed has been formed by excavation and filling in with stones, the work will be more expensive.

In relocating, the rules given in Chapter VI for the establishment of new roads and Avalks will be equally applicable.

An already-established place that needs improving may be likened to an unfinished picture the details of which must be filled out and retouched and any defects covered up, while in the new place we have bat the canvas—the colors and other material are all new and fresh, i.e., the land, the rocks, water, buildings, grass, trees, shrubs, etc. The result in the first case depends largely upon how much and how good is the work that has been done, and how skilful the artist in adapting himself to the ideas already started, and in remedying defects. In the second case the results largely depend on the artist alone.

Farm-home Decoration.

The decoration of farm homes is a subject not often discussed in works on landscape gardening, but there is no place so susceptible of ornamentation as the average farm, and possibly no place where so little is done to improve the beauty of the home surroundings. Generally there is an abundance and a great variety of land, also a wealth of materials in the way of trees, shrubs, and plants that may be used, and the tools, teams, and labor with which to bring about the ornamental results.

Our Farmers Cultivate Too Much Land.

Most of our farmers cultivate too much land, and they would in many cases grow rich faster if they cultivated less land and planted the less productive places, the odd bits, the rough stony fields and abrupt slopes, the small irregular lots in the angles formed by roads or fence lines, with trees that would be a source of beauty and in time add value to the property. Such decoration would be a source of pleasure to those doing the work and to all of the occupants of the home, and the pleasant associations and memories of the farm home, where beauty and utility are thus combined, will do much to make home the dearest of all places, and especially prevent the young men from leaving the farm for city life.

The rules for planting, arrangement, and care of trees and shrubs to be followed in this work are given in previous chapters. Many unsightly objects can be easily hidden from view, and the more beautiful features in the picture from the dwelling be brought out more prominently and improved.

Windbreaks for the house and other buildings may be easily provided, as well as shelter for the stock in the pasture against the fierce storms of spring and autumn and the burning sun of the summer.

A few majestic oaks, chestnuts, or other spreading trees in the pasture, or here and there dotted about the farm or near the buildings, add much to the beauty and character of the farm landscape, and every effort possible should be made to encourage the growth of such and preserve any that may be already established.

Fruit-trees as Ornaments.

Fruit-trees on suitable land in many cases may be used in work of decoration on the farm, thus serving a double purpose. The apple, pear, and plum require a strong well-enriched soil and an avenue just inside the road boundary, bordering large mowing lot or farm roadways, if properly cared for so as to make well-formed heads, would be sources of great beauty when in blossom, and again when loaded with fruit in the autumn. The cherry and peach require a lighter soil wish a full exposure of air, as on the brow of a hill or a western or northwestern exposure, and nothing is more beautiful than au avenue of pyramidal cherry-trees when in bloom early in the spring, while the beauty of the peach blossom and its ripening fruit have not been too highly praised in song and story.

The labor and expense required to produce the few touches of beauty on many of our farms to make them homes of comfort and beauty is very small, and the skill and taste acquired in this work will enable one to become more skilful in other directions, i.e., in growing and preparing many of the profitable crops for market.

It is generally conceded that the most successful and thrifty farmers are those who have a love for the beautiful, who keep their premises in a neat condition, and who have every tool kept in its proper place when not in use, and who never allow anything to be out of place longer than is necessary. No waste, no leaks are allowed, and if weeds or brush interfere with their growing crops, or with ornamental or fruit trees, they are dispatched. Lore of order prevails everywhere, about the barn, by the roadside, as well as about the home-buildings, and beauty and thrift go hand in hand. We are largely creatures of habits of thought or of labor, and anything done thoroughly, systematically, beautifully in one direction helps us more or less in all other lines of work.

Farm-roads.

Good farm-roads are a necessity for quick and easy transportation of the products of the farm. The principles of construction of such are the same as for other roads,* and where there is an abundance of stones they may be utilized for foundation and unsightly objects removed from the surface of the land or roadside.

Road-making is very expensive business, and few farmers find profit enough in their work to warrant the expense of long lines of roadway. Only such roads as are absolutely needed should be made, and the expense of construction will be felt less if only a short length is constructed at one time. Whenever stones are being picked up from the land, a convenient way of getting rid of them is to excavate a piece of roadway and cover them up with a dressing of gravel. This is far better than dumping them along the roadsides or in some other equally conspicuous place, where brush and weeds will grow up through and about them in such a manner that they cannot be eradicated except by finally removing the stones and tearing them out root and branch.

* See chapter on Roads and Roadside Improvement.

Removal of Stone "Walls and Fences.

Except around permanent pastures and to protect fruit plantations from trespass, walls and fences are no longer a necessity. They are not ornamental no matter how nicely made, and are very costly to construct and keep in repair. They occupy a great amount of land, and the average stone or wood farm-fence gives harbor to mice, squirrels, and other vermin. It is also almost impossible to keep weeds and brush from getting such a foothold along their line as not to be easily dislodged, and ornamental trees and shrubs are much more subject to insect and fungous pests, making it very difficult to grow them successfully where such harbors for these pests exist. If one is located near a large and growing town or city, stone walls can be disposed of for building purposes, and the " stone crop " of many farms often becomes a large source of income.

Pond-holes and boggy meadows may be filled up with the accumulating small stones, covered over with soil, and thus land of some value be produced, while the stones are put where they will never cause further trouble.

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