Chapter 5 - Shrubs, Hedges And Hardy Climbers

Methods of grouping
Preparation of land and planting
Pruning and care of shrubs
Hedges: their importance
Pruning and training hedges
Hardy woody-climbers
Their importance planting and care of herbaceous plants
Tender foliage or flowering plants.

Shrubs may serve tinder some conditions, e.g., on small places, the purpose of screens when planted near the buildings, or near the street when the land slopes upward toward the house, but in very few places can they be used for shelter. They are especially adapted to add finishing touches and cause a blending between the trees and lawn or for massing in ornamental groups on small grounds.

They present a much greater variety in form, size, and color than the trees. Among them we have the most beautiful colors and variegations of foliage, the most beautiful grace of outline, and the greatest variety of forms and colors of blossoms, coming on more or less from the earliest spring to late summer or early autumn, which afford material for the most beautiful effects. Being small they will give a much greater number of forms and colors on places of limited size than can be obtained from the use of trees. For description of shrubs see Chapter XII.

Preparation of Land, Planting, Grouping, etc.

The preparation of the land, the pruning preparatory for and the planting of shrubs, are so similar to those required for trees that directions need not be repeated here.

The same rules also as for trees should be followed in regard to individuals or groups as to distance, blending of colors and forms, etc.

Two Methods Of Grouping.

Two methods of grouping are commonly practised, i.e., 1st, the grouping of many flowering varieties in one mass whereby some kinds may be in bloom at all times from April to November, and 2d, the arrangement of large masses of one species or variety together so as to produce very marked effect. The former will generally give the most satisfaction on small grounds, but on places of considerable extent the most pleasing results will be obtained by planting many specimens of one kind in a group. For example, large groups of Forsythias, Spirsea Van Honttii, Hydrangea paniculata, Japanese snowball, etc., arranged in large masses, present beautiful views and strong contrasts that cannot be obtained in any other way.

At the entrance of the grounds, as in Pig. 36, beside the walk or drive, or at their forkings, as in Fig. 39, groups of shrubs fix the attention on the change of direction, and we pass on or change from one walk to another less conscious of the change of direction than if only the plain walk was before us.

Another use of shrubs may be found in their serving to give a reason for abrupt changes of direction or the termination of a walk, as shown in Figs. 40 and 41, and also to make a curved walk on small grounds appear the most natural and the shortest distance between two points, as in Fig. 31.

Change of curves in walks are made to appear more natural if the borders are more or less decorated with shrubs at points where there would be a temptation to cut across to shorten the distance, as in Pig. 31. They also serve to cover up and break the monotony of the walk by obscuring changes until it becomes necessary for one to make the turn to reach one point or another. A combined group of trees and shrubs illustrating the shrubs planted a little way from the trees is shown in Fig. 34.

FIG. 39.—Trees And Shrubs Grouped At Branching Of Walk Ob Drive.

FIG. 40,                            FIG. 41.
FIGS. 40, 41.—Trees And Shrubs Grouped At End Or Turn Of Walk.

Pruning Of  Shrubs.

In pruning shrubs they should be allowed to take their most natural and perfect form; and, when branches become old and weak, they should be cut away from the inside, thus thinning out and allowing new shoots to grow to take their place, as at a, Fig. 47.

The practice of shearing shrubs on the outside only, without thinning out any of the inside branches, cannot be too severely condemned, for it not only gives them an unnatural form in which there is little or no beauty, but it causes an increase in the number of small and imperfect shoots at the ends of the branches, thus shutting out the sunlight and resulting in a very imperfect growth, that produce very few, if any, flowers.

The best blooms of some kinds of shrubs are borne on wood of two or more years' growth, and the annual pruning often destroys much of this growth and forces the shrub to make wood at the expense of blossoms. In the case of the Hydrangia and Hibiscus, however, which bloom late in the season and from the new shoots, annual pruning of the old wood will result in larger and better flowers. Early-blooming shrubs, like the Spirsea, Weigelas, Forsythias, lilacs, Exochordia, etc., may be trimmed in early summer just after blooming with the best results; while the Hydrangea, althea, and clethra, etc., should be pruned in fall, winter, or early spring. If left a long time unpruned, whether in groups or planted singly, most shrubs become irregular in form and lose their beauty.

By careful pruning and proper arrangement beds or groups of shrubs may be made to keep as good form and appearance for many years as if newly planted. The larger-growing shrubs should be planted in the centre and the smaller ones on the border of the groups, each kind thus showing its natural size and beauty if given space for full development.

Hedges.*

The arrangement of trees or shrubs in the close form of the hedge is under some conditions desirable and can often be done with pleasing effect, though generally only the very low hedge—one to three feet high—can be considered decidedly ornamental.

For the complete seclusion of the nursery and playground, the clothes-drying yard, etc., or where the space is very limited, the large hedge is sometimes allowable.

Preparation Of Land.

To make a satisfactory hedge, the ground is to be as well prepared as for the growth of trees or shrubs under any other conditions, and as the plants are set out more thickly than where grouped for ornamentation, it should be made richer by an additional supply of suitable plant-food.

*See description of hedge-plants, page 219.

Avoid Close Planting.

One of the greatest mistakes made in planting hedges is in the distance at which the trees or shrubs are planted. When set one foot apart or less, as is sometimes practised, if the kinds of plants used naturally grow to large trees, as with the hemlock, spruce, arbor-vitas, honey-locust, etc., some of the plants will grow more rapidly than the others, some will die out, and all will be seriously injured by the attempt to grow them in so contracted a space. The distance best for planting mast vary with the variety, but they should have room enough to enable them to make a sufficient growth to keep them in a healthy condition. Norway spruces, hemlocks, large forms of the arbor-vitaes, honey-locusts, etc., should be planted five feet apart at least, and be forced to spread out and grow laterally by cutting in at the top until strong main branches are formed near the ground. If immediate effect is desired, small plants may be set closely, and when they touch be transplanted again with a little greater distance between them or every other one be taken out. In this way, if plants are set over only one half of the line desired at first, as they crowd the line can be extended at less expense and with better results than if the whole distance were planted at once with trees of larger size.

Requirements Of A Perfect Hedge.

The first requirement of a perfect hedge either for beauty or for a perfect screen is numerous main branches close to the ground, and at transplanting, unless the plants have been specially prepared in the nursery, they should be cut back severely to encourage this condition of growth. It is not often possible to obtain hemlocks and spruces in proper condition for a perfect hedge, they not having been cut down while small, and they cannot be so severely pruned as can the deciduous trees; but the honey-locust, Japanese quince, buckthorn, privet, etc., can and should be cut down to within six inches of the ground at planting, even if of large size, and be kept low until sufficient strong lateral branches are developed to insure a close and healthy growth near to the ground. This may seem like severe treatment, but, as all trees or shrubs when planted closely tend to grow only at the top, in no other way can a perfect hedge be made that will grow a long time without becoming broken and irregular from dying of the branches. After the necessary lateral growth has been obtained the top should be cut a little higher each year until the proper height has been reached. The point at which to cut and the results of this pruning is illustrated in Figs. 42 and 43, the dotted ine a showing the point of first pruning. The effect of this pruning is shown in the three trees at the right; the line a' showing the second pruning.

FIG. 42.                 FIG. 43.
FIG. 42.—illustrates cutting back of a hedge. Via. 43.—illustrates results of cutttng a hedge.

Form Of Hedges.

Of the many forms in which hedges are pruned, a satisfactory and permanent growth will only be obtained by the triangular or conical shape, Figs. 44 and 45. When the sides are pruned perpendicularly, as in Fig. 46, there can be but little growth except at the top, as at a; while in the conical or triangular form the tendency will be to grow upward from all points along the sides, as in the above figures, the sides being thus kept well covered with foliage and new growth.

FIG.  44.          FIG. 45.           FIG.  46.
FIGS. 44, 45.—Correct Form Of Hedges.
FIG. 46.—Incorrect Form Of Hedges.

Pruning Hedges.

As in pruning specimen shrubs, continual shearing at the ends will cause a more or less close, defective, and unhealthy growth, and here and there over the hedge weak branches should be removed at considerable distance toward the inside, which, as shown in Fig. 47, a, will result in new shoots from near the centre of growth and thus the vigor of the plant will be renewed. A hedge pruned in this way may not present quite so solid an outline, but it has a more graceful appearance, and will keep in a healthy condition much longer than when pruned only at the ends of the branches.

FIG. 47—Where Cut Should Be Made In Pruning.

Time For Peitning Hedges.

If it is desired to check the growth, as when the hedge has reached the desired height, the pruning should be done in June or July; but if more growth is desired, i.e., while the hedge is in the formative stage and to produce a lateral growth, the spring, just before growth begins, is the best time for pruning.

Implements Fob Pruning.

For the preliminary pruning of cutting out branches from the inside the common hand pruning-shears and a large pruning-knife are all that is needed, but for giving permanent finished outline the long hedge-shears are indispensable. To obtain a true outline, strong twine stretched very taut and held in place by stakes is the simplest and most satisfactory method. If the surface of the ground on which the hedge is grown is curved, the top line of the hedge should take the same curve, thus making it the same height throughout its length.

A Mixed Hedge.

Hedges of flowering shrubs, where the flowers are the most desirable feature, should be pruned as directed for other flowering shrubs, but the close solid hedge cannot be obtained by this method of pruning.

Adaptability Of Soil And Locality.

As with trees and shrubs under all other conditions, the different varieties used for hedges will only succeed under proper conditions of soil and exposure. Thus the hemlock will only succeed when planted in a moist cool soil, in a cool yet somewhat sheltered location. The arbor-vitags and all other evergreens are also often seriously injured if planted where exposed to extremely hot sun, heavy winds, or where passers-by will come in contact with them when frozen.    The pines and spruces will grow well in light land.

Most of the deciduous trees and shrubs used for hedges succeed better in exposed places than the evergreens and under more varied conditions, but each must have a suitable soil to grow to the greatest perfection. Almost any soil may be so changed at little expense as to be adapted to the needs of most kinds of hedge-plants. If the soil is too light, liberal dressings of stable manure or other organic matter will enable it to retain moisture sufficient for a good growth. If very heavy, sand or gravel worked into the soil will make it more light and porous. If very wet, thorough drainage will remedy this defect.

The annual dressing of manure or fertilizer recommended for trees and shrubs should be put about the trunk of each plant before the ground freezes, and all leaves and rubbish that will attract mice or other vermin be removed before the ground is covered with snow. No weeds or seedling trees or shrubs should be allowed to get a foothold about the hedge, and in very much exposed places a protection of pine boughs during the winter will be found very beneficial until the plants have become fully established.

Hardy Climbing Shrubs.*

The part that hardy climbers play in the landscape or ornamental art is often very important. As a summer covering for verandas and arbors nothing possesses so much natural beauty. They supply the beautiful green so pleasant to the eye, and by constant evaporation of moisture from their leaves produce a cool shade that no artificial material can supply. Some of them possess most beautifully cut or shaded foliage, while others produce most beautiful flowers, and when once planted they grow on for many years with but little care. Some of them, like the wistaria, Aristolochia, Actinidia, bittersweet, etc., will twine about large pillars or other supports, some will support themselves to brick or stone walls by their suckers, while many, like the clematis, etc., require the support of the trellis, the single wire, or the wire netting.

If grown too abundantly or trained too closely to the building, vines often render the dwelling damp and unhealthy and cause rapid decay of the woodwork.

As to cultivation, they require the same care and fertility of soil as recommended for upright shrubs. Fig. 48 shows a vine-covered cottage in June, Fig. 49 the same in April.

Pruning Of Climbers.

In addition to the pruning required to keep climbing vines within proper limits, which can be largely done by pinching and light clipping during the summer, they require in some cases the cutting back of the old wood of the laterals in order  to produce fresh clean shoots and foliage, and in other cases the heading in of the young wood to encourage development of the blossom-buds. In a few cases winter protection should be provided by tying straw around them or covering them with matting. Any covering of this kind, however, unless very neatly done detracts from the appearance of a veranda or arbor and should be avoided if possible.

*See description of hardy climbing shrubs on page 213.

Hardy Herbaceous Plants.*

No class of plants affords more beauty and pleasure for so little expenditure of labor and money as the hardy herbaceous plants. They are especially adapted to small places, and with a background of low trees or shrubs some very beautiful pictures can be formed. As with shrubs and trees, some kinds require special conditions of soil to be grown successfully, while others succeed on a great variety of soils. Most of them will grow a long time in one place without renewal of soil, but some of them need dividing and transplanting every three or four years to insure the most vigorous growth and the best flowers.

They may be arranged in groups of the same kind, or in mixed groups, as may be desired, with good effect; but on large places generous groups of one kind with striking characteristics will be the most satisfactory, while on small places the mixed arrangement may, perhaps, give the most pleasure.

Tender Foliage or Flowering Plants, †

*See list of hardy herbaceous plan s on page 322. † See list of bedding-plants on page 242.

For many years past it has been the fashion to grow, more or less largely, brilliantly colored foliage or flowering plants iii large masses; and while the pleasure obtained by the growth and study of these plants is often very great, the effect produced is sometimes not quite in keeping with the quiet beauty of the refined home. It often partakes more of the nature of " loud dress," much avoided by all people of good taste. Gaudy pattern-beds covering large areas standing out conspicuously on the lawn with nothing to cause a blending of color cannot be considered in good taste, but if placed so that more moderate colors grouped near may tone down their intensity they may not be objectionable.

Small groups of the more brilliantly colored foliage-plants or of those with beautiful flowers placed in retired nooks with a good background, along the borders of walks, or close up to the veranda with a good extent of lawn often add brightness to a scene that can be produced in no other way. These bedding-plants, well started under glass, produce effect during the entire season which cannot be obtained from perennial plants or shrubs. They often show color or begin to bloom soon after setting out and continue until cut off by frost.

They are comparatively inexpensive if purchased from the commercial grower, or many of them are easily and cheaply grown with only the facilities of a small hotbed or a few sunny windows.

Intricate figures and designs often seen in public grounds and large estates should not be attempted on small places, for, besides being unsuited to such limited areas, they will detract from other features whatever of beauty they may possess.

 

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